Surfers, Sunsets, and Sizzling Sunburns
>> 2009-01-13
Finally we've had a couple of rest days. After 10 days of solid riding we rode into Byrons Bay just 150 km shy of Brisbane (our first major destination). Byrons Bay is akin to those hip backpackers enclaves that litter the world. A place of young summer love, sizzling sunburns, and an unprecedented level of alcohol consumption. Exactly the type of place where Z and I bumble around awkwardly, searching for a quiet place to read and people watch.
Byrons Bay at dusk:
We're approaching our 3rd and final night in Byrons Bay. Our discount caravan park outside town has treated us well. Originally we had planned to stay at a hotel here but with everyone on holiday the rates have skyrocketed. So back to the familiar spot on the ground at $20/night.
Little did we know boogie-boarding and body surfing is such an Australian past-time. The locals have taken it up with such feverishness it puts the Americans and their trucks to shame. Z and I have felt the true essence of being 'white washed' - the moment in time where all control is lost and the wave tosses you about - similar to the spin cycle in a washing machine. Yesterday after hours in the ocean we managed to get the hang of it with only a mild plumling from the waves.
We have surprisingly found the roads to be well suited for cycling, with many off the highway routes and wide shoulders. About half of our nights we free camp. About half-way to Brisbane, a little south of Coffs Harbor we set up camp at a truck stop in Clybucca. A friendly staff, 24hs shop, and showers this was one of our best nights sleep. We met numerous truckers who wanted to know all about our cycling journey. The following days we pushed on making it to a little inland city called Grafton. The roads to Grafton were rural, scenic, and very hilly. I had to get off and push my bike up two hills. Z amazingly was able to trudge up the hills without stopping. He earned his Polka-Dot cycle jersey for the top tour hill climber that day. We camped that night at a caravan park and we finally had our first dinner along. So far we have been joined by strangers interested in our tour - swapping stories about cycling and traveling.
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